Bahia Tortuga, Baja California, Mexico

“El Gordo, Jr”. (Enrique Gerardo Castro) is the entrepreneur of Turtle Bay; fuel, restaurant, motel, taxi, laundry, etc?. His minions came to Seahorse V before Annabelle was awake. $2.55 per gallon of diesel; I asked for complimentary taxi service for our stay; when the panga man balked, I told him to call Enrique, who agreed to the deal; Enrique has the last say on everything in Turtle Bay.

We walked into town by the Catholic church. It has a prominent location on a bluff overlooking the bay. The furnishings are modest; fitting for a community with little economic output. The super Mercado is akin to a super Wal-mart, but on a smaller scale, smaller and smaller; fruits, vegetables, meat, school supplies, pharmaceuticals, TV’s, stereos, cooking ranges and refrigerators. Past the internet café to La Pallapa for a visit with Mercedes and El Jeffe (Carlos). Beer, tequila and fish tacos overlooking the bay. Night is coming to Bahia Tortugas. As the sun sets, the clouds change color and contrast; a few more sail boats are at the entrance seeking shelter from the sea. I finish the night at the internet café with hundreds of emails; I need a better spam filter.

The Sea Takes Its Toll:  This morning we hear that J World sank in seven minutes off the coast; it was an encounter with whales. They were in a life raft for a couple hours before the Coast Guard helicopter plucked them from the water. J World is the first boat ever lost on the Baja Ha-ha in sixteen years. Other boats tore sails, bent equipment and are bruised. We have a small tear in our radial spinnaker and a shredded guy line. And this is fun?? Well yes, in a controlled risk adventure. Winds blew hard at sea and in Bahia Tortugas; we had a gust of sixty one knots, just a few short of hurricane force. The weather has been cold, in contrast to previous years in the 90’s. The wind continues to blow hard and create thousands of sparkling sun spots on the water. Mercedes and Carlos (El Jefe) court the gringos with beer, topopos, fish tacos, and lobster. A WiFi hookup at Ron and Isabela’s keeps us connected to civilization (too bad…).

The beach party has peaked by the time we arrive. A lot of beer, food and volley ball later, the crowd is departing for their boats to recover for the evening festivities.

Turtle Bay celebrates Dia de los Muertos beginning with school displays in the plaza. Food is for sale; the local hero band plays Mexican rock and American covers. Betty is the wildest dancer on scene. Ron and Erik are making appointments with their cardiologist as the band plays on. Only the gringos are dancing; the high school girls in their plaid uniforms keep to the sidelines despite encouragement for young American studs. When the rock stops, the traditional corridas begin with the more mature locals. The gingo’s have moved on to other venues in town.